Cod Brandade

Traditional brandade is a purée of salt cod, olive oil and garlic from the south of France, and it usually needs a day or two of soaking. This cod brandade uses fresh fillets and potato instead, so you can have a warm, garlicky, spoonable fish dish on the table in about 35 minutes. Spread it on toasted bread for a starter or lunch.

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Cod brandade in a small bowl with chopped parsley and toasted baguette slices
Total
35 min
Prep
15 min
Cook
20 min
Serves
4
Per serving
380kcal

Fresh cod or salt cod?

Classic brandade is made with salt cod, which gives a firmer, saltier result. Fresh cod gives a softer, milder cod brandade that needs no soaking, and the potato makes it go further and keeps it creamy. Haddock or pollack work in the same way if cod is not available.

Choose floury potatoes such as Maris Piper or King Edward, as waxy ones turn heavy and sticky when mashed with oil. Use a decent olive oil too, because it supplies much of the flavour.

Step-by-step cod brandade

Tap a time to start a timer.

  1. Boil the potatoes Peel the potatoes and cut them into 3cm chunks. Put them in a large saucepan of cold water with a pinch of salt, bring to the boil and simmer for about , until a knife slides in with no resistance.
  2. Poach the cod While the potatoes cook, put the cod, garlic and milk in a small saucepan. Heat until the milk is barely bubbling, then poach gently for , until the fish is opaque and flakes easily with a fork. Lift the fish out with a slotted spoon and keep the milk and garlic.
  3. Drain and dry the potatoes Drain the potatoes in a colander and return them to the hot pan for , so the steam escapes and they are not watery.
  4. Mash Flake the cod into the potatoes, checking carefully for stray bones. Add the poached garlic and mash by hand until the fish breaks down. Trickle in the olive oil in a thin stream, mashing as you go, so it is absorbed rather than pooling.
  5. Loosen and season Add the warm poaching milk a splash at a time, about 100ml in total, until the brandade is thick but spoonable. Stir in the lemon juice, the ½ tsp salt and plenty of pepper, then taste and adjust.
  6. Serve Spoon into a warm bowl, scatter with the parsley and serve straight away with the toasted baguette slices.

What to serve with it

Brandade is rich, so it suits a light plate: toasted baguette, a bitter leaf salad and a few cornichons. If you like the mix of fish and potato, fishcakes with remoulade are a good next step, and cod in foil is an easy way to cook the same fillets without any mashing.

For a golden top, spoon the brandade into a small ovenproof dish and bake at 220°C (200°C fan), gas 7, for 10 minutes.

Common problems and fixes for Cod Brandade

The brandade is gluey or stretchy.
Over-working starchy potato makes it gummy. Mash by hand with a masher and stop once everything is combined. A food processor or electric whisk is the usual cause.
The oil sits on top and the mixture looks greasy.
The oil went in too quickly. Add it in a thin trickle while mashing, and keep the potatoes warm, as cold potato will not take it up.
It tastes flat.
Fresh cod is milder than salt cod, so it needs more seasoning. Add the lemon juice and salt at the end, then taste and add a little more of each if needed.

Frequently asked questions about Cod Brandade

Can I use salt cod instead of fresh?

Yes, and it is the traditional choice. Soak 400g salt cod in cold water for 24–48 hours, changing the water three or four times, then poach it in the milk as above. Leave out the added salt until you have tasted it.

Can I use frozen cod?

Yes. Defrost it fully in the fridge overnight, then pat it dry before poaching so the brandade is not watery.

How long does it keep?

It keeps for up to 2 days in a covered container in the fridge. Reheat it gently in a saucepan with a splash of milk, stirring, until steaming hot all the way through.

What should I serve with cod brandade?

Toasted baguette or crusty bread is the classic partner. Raw vegetable sticks, crackers and a crisp green salad with a lemony dressing also work well.

How did you like the recipe?

4.7 / 5 · 44 ratings